This book analyzes the fundamental aspects of graphically depicting a wide variety of jewelry. The relationships of volume, balance between full and empty, treatment of metal surfaces, warm and cool materials and the relationship between the support and the stone are explained in depth along with ways to illuminate jewelry, treatment of light and chiaroscuro play to add depth. The book begins with simple geometric structures and moves on to explore more complex forms through a range of distortions and multiplications. The goal is not to show finished pieces of jewelry but to provide the tools that will enable readers to acquire a work method that allows them to represent their ideas effectively. From orthogonal and axonometric projections to techniques (watercolor, tempera, ink, mixed technique) and different possible supports, readers will find a source of inspiration for developing their own designs. Rings, tiaras, precious stones, bracelets and chains) are graphically represented in this book as if they were real, along with effects such as depth, gloss and transparency.

Autorentext
Cosimo Vinci studied jewellery design in Florence and Vicenza. His clients are international companies from small to large businesses, from high end jewellery to bijoux. He has designed jewellery for famous fashion brands such as Versace, Versus, Balmain, Montana, Laura Biagiotti, Valentino, Etro. Since 1998 he has been teaching at The Art and Craft School in Vicenza and conducting seminars in many parts of the world on this subject.

Inhalt

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION.

ORTHOGONAL AND AXONOMETRIC PROJECTION. Essential components of axonometry. Cutaway drawings. Precise definition of the object. Why take measurements. Scale representation of a ring. Drawings of band and domed rings. Orthogonal projection and different axonometric views. A domed ring with stones. Dimensional drawing. Precious metals.

LIGHT AND COLOUR OF METALS. Yellow gold using pastels. Yellow gold using Pantone markers. Yellow gold using mixed media. Yellow gold using Adobe Illustrator. White gold using pastels. White gold using Pantone markers. White gold using tempera. White gold using a computer. Rose gold using pastels. Rose gold using Pantone markers. Rose gold using tempera. Rose gold using a computer. Chiaroscuro sketches of basicsolids: the cube. FINISHES (Polished. Satin. Brushed. Sandblasted. Hammered).

SHADOWS AND CHIAROSCURO. Cuboid surfaces. Chiaroscuro sketches of basic solids: the sphere. Concave surfaces. Convex surfaces. Domed surfaces. Chiaroscuro sketches of basic. lids: the cone. Conical surfaces. Pyramidal surfaces. Chiaroscuro sketches of basicsolids: the cylinder. Tubular and cylindrical surfaces. Granules. Filigree. Organic.

GREECE - THE ANCIENT WORLD.

ENAMELWORK AND TECHNIQUES. Cloisonné. Champlevé. Translucent enamel on bas-relief. En ronde bosse. Painted enamel. Plique-a-jour, cathedral enamel. Studies of enamelled jewellery.

BYZANTIUM AND ITS EMPIRE.

GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION OF GEMSTONES AND CUTS. Cabochon cut semi-precious transparent gemstones. Colouring gemstones. Aquamarine. Quartz. Opal. Tourmaline. Amethyst. Amber. Citrine. Crystal.

THE MIDDLE AGES.

CABOCHON CUT SEMI-PRECIOUS OPAQUE GEMSTONES. Agate. Tiger's eye. Turquoise. Lapis lazuli. Malachite. Pearls. Pearl varieties. Coral.

THE RENAISSANCE.

CHARACTERISTICS OF DIAMOND. Cut. Carats. Colour and clarity. Origins of the Diamond. Diamond varieties.

THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY AND THE BAROQUE.

PRECIOUS GEMSTONES. Emerald. Ruby. Sapphire.

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. SPECIAL CUTS. Drop cut. Asscher cut. Baguette cut. Princess cut. Emerald cut. Oval cut. Marquise or navette cut. Heart cut. Rose cut. Trillion cut. Cushion cut diamond. The gemstone family.

THE AGE OF EMPIRE

GRAPHICS OF GEMSTONE SETTINGS. Bezel. Flush. Channel. Bar. Pavé. Prong. Pearl Peg.

GRAPHICS OF CLASPS. Box. Lobster and springring. Side pin. Side spring. Adjustable. Bayonet and sliding side pin. Safety pins. Hair pins. Necklace fasteners. Earring closures. Snap post. Screw back clip fastener. Lever back fastener. Butterfly. Clip on.

ART NOUVEAU-BELLE EPOQUE

GRAPHICS OF CHAINS. Rolo. Anchor. Groumette. Other types of groumette. Venetian. Foxtail. Korean. Rope. Bead. Gas pipe. Creative chains. Charms.

ALTERNATIVE MATERIALS. Celluloid. Bakelite. Murano glass. Lampworking. Murrine. Ebony. Ivory. Steel. Titanium. Meteorite. Bronze and brass

THE SECOND HALF OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY. Ring sizes. Bracelet sizes.

PARURE AND DEMI-PARURE. Study of colour variants in a demi-parure. Study of colour and materials in a parure

SIZES AND ERGONOMICS. Rigid necklaces. Neck and ear front view. Ear and neck drawn in profile. Neck, ear and hand side view. Necklace lengths. Positioning the hands. Perspective view of a bangle. Left and right ear. Studies of earrings and their fit. Jewellery and bijoux.

MEN'S JEWELLERY. Articulated link chains. Plate bracelet. Modular bracelet. Signet rings. Tie pins. Tie Bar. Tie Clip. How to wear a tie pin. Cufflinks. Modular pendants. Men's parure. Watches.