An essential guide to patternmaking for plus-size fashion, and the specialized skills, shapes, and techniques required to achieve a great fit and make beautiful clothing that truly understands plus-size bodies. Featuring all the major block types for contemporary apparel - from fitted bodices to T-shirts, sleeve variations to swimwear - and packed with clear illustrations and step-by-step guidance, Brown and Kelleher guide you through: - drafting a complete set of plus-size blocks suitable for use with models and clients - industry plus size fit forms - adapting existing designs for plus sizes - practical skills for respectful measuring, fitting, and working with larger bodies. With practical coverage of every step of the pattern-drafting process, from developing a size chart, to considering mobility and wearing ease, to working with photographs and undergarments as sizing aids, Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear is an essential textbook for all modern fashion and apparel students. Online resources available for download: - Instructor resources, including course curriculum - Sample size charts for sizes, blank size chart templates, and ease chart - Instructions for calculating required measurements for block drafting section - Instructions for measuring and analyzing existing garments, including standard measurements used in block drafting - A collection of plus size croquis in different sizes and poses for use

Autorentext
Gabby Brown is a technical designer in the US fashion industry. Her experience is in ready-to-wear apparel manufacturing for major retailers including Abercrombie & Fitch and JCPenney. Gabby's background is focused on fitting, construction, patternmaking, grading, and block development. She teaches workshops and intensive classes, and works with private clients to create their own custom wardrobes. Leila Kelleher (she/her) is an Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Social Justice at Parsons School of Design. She works at the intersection of fashion and biomechanics to centre fat bodies that are traditionally excluded by the fashion industry. Leila's teaching, research, and professional practice uses an interdisciplinary, decolonized, and anatomically-based approach that applies the principles of biomechanics, the study of human movement, to fashion design and production.

Her current research is centred on exploring best practices for plus size patternmaking, grading, and fashion pedagogy. She is also working on a project that explores the fat fashion experience through the lens of making and is the co-owner of Muna and Broad, a plus size specific sewing pattern company. Her previous research includes a multi-year Indigenous partnership in the Canadian Arctic, biomechanical research on sporting protective equipment and functional movement, and occupational injuries in professional musicians. Leila has a PhD in Biomechanics from Western University (Canada), a Masters in Music Performance from the Eastman School of Music, and was previously a Professor of Health Sciences and Wellness at Humber College in Canada.

Inhalt

Foreword by Dr. Ben Barry, Dean of Fashion, Parsons School of Design, New York, USA

Part 1: Introduction to the Principles of the Plus Size Experience

1. Understanding the Market
2. Analyzing Bodies

3. Patternmaking Concepts

   Part 2: Introduction to Practical Applications

4. Size Charts & Taking Measurements
5. Adapting a Form: Techniques
6. Size Extensions: Best Practices
7. Adaptive Design

8. Running a Fitting

   Part 3: Introduction to Blocks

9. Relaxed Woven Bodice
10. Fitted Woven Dress: Bodice & Skirt
11. Fitted Knit Tee Shirt
12. Knit Pullover Hoodie
13. Classic Woven Coat
14. Stretch Woven Trouser
15. Knit Leggings
16. Knit Underwear (Brief)

17. Swim: Maillot

    Part 4: Further Understanding

18. Sleeves: Set-In, Raglan, & Grown On

19. Fit Variations: Heights & Figures

    Conclusion

    Appendices
    Appendix 1. Sample Size Measurements & Ease Charts
    Appendix 2. Calculation Techniques
    Appendix 3. Croquis for Plus Size Bodies

    References
    Recommended Reading