This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic­ tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli­ cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar­ able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.

Inhalt

1 Introduction.- 1.1 Scope of the monograph.- References.- 2 Basic Wave Dynamics.- 2.1 Phase speed solution for a surface wave.- 2.2 Internal and capillary waves.- 2.3 Finite amplitude waves.- 2.4 Group wave speed and wave energy.- References.- 3 Wave Generation Propagation and Dissipation.- 3.1 Historical notes.- 3.2 Early theories of Kelvin, Helmholtz and Jeffreys.- 3.3 Wave generation and growth by linear processes.- 3.4 Wave growth by nonlinear interactions.- 3.5 Wave propagation and dissipation.- References.- 4 Wave Prediction: Early Wave Prediction Techniques.- 4.1 General comments.- 4.2 Significant wave method.- 4.3 Wave spectrum method.- 4.4 Wave spectrum formulation.- References.- 5 Wave Prediction: Spectral Models.- 5.1 General comments.- 5.2 Discrete spectral wave models.- 5.3 Parametric and hybrid wave models.- 5.4 Coupled discrete wave models.- 5.5 Third generation wave models.- References.- 6 Wave Prediction in Shallow Water.- 6.1 General comments.- 6.2 Review of earlier work.- 6.3 Spectral approach.- 6.4 Inclusion of shallow-water effects in operational wave analysis and prediction.- References.- 7 Validation of Wave Models.- 7.1 General comments.- 7.2 Evaluation of individual wave models.- 7.3 Intercomparison of wave models.- 7.4 Wave model intercomparison during CASP.- 7.5 Summary.- References.- 8 Wind Specification for Wave Analysis and Prediction.- 8.1 Cardone's procedure.- 8.2 Wind specification for operational wave models.- 8.3 Examples of wind specification differences; results from CASP.- References.- 9 Wave Analysis: Operations and Applications.- 9.1 General comments.- 9.2 Analysis of wave records.- 9.3 Wave products and wave climatology.- 9.4 Extreme wave statistics.- 9.5 Real-time wave analysis and prediction.- References.- 10 Summary and Future Outlook.- 10.1 General comments.- 10.2 Present status of operational wave models.- 10.3 Wave model initialization.- 10.4 Wave modelling in shallow water and in nearshore region.- 10.5 Future outlook.- References.