In Deep

Auteur
FOREWORD BY KELLY SLATER: Kelly Slater is an American professional surfer, best known for being crowned World Surf League champion a record 11 times. Slater is widely regarded as the greatest professional surfer of all time, and holds 56 Championship Tour victories

Texte du rabat

A soulful collection of nearly four decades of surf writing. In Deep transports readers into the heart of the surfing world's culture through the eyes and imagination of a master storyteller. George's personality profiles, perspective essays, and travel accounts achieve a level of frank articulation that, much like the works of Theroux, Krakauer, and Finnegan, reveal as much about the man as it does his subjects. Peak transcendence and quiet reflection, famous beaches and lost islands, competitive triumphs and personal tragedies; In Deep is a compelling montage assembled by both a seasoned observer and fervent participant in the sublime pursuit of the passion that comes in waves.

Contenu
CONTENTS
FOREWORD 8
PREFACE 12
RED WATER 20
OLD SMOKE 26
ONCE THERE WAS A WAR 30
THE SEDUCTION OF KELLY SLATER 38
KEALA KENNELLY’S SYMPHONIES FOR THE DEVIL 49
BYRNING HEART 62
FLESH AND BLOOD 82
DREAMTIME 97
WAR PARTY 102
THE HORNIEST SURFER ON THE WORLD QUALIFYING SERIES TOUR 108
BEAU YOUNG WALKS ON WATER 113
FULL METAL RACKET 128
WATERWORLD 138
DON’T MESS WITH TEXAS 145
THE ART AND SOUL OF ROB MACHADO 155
THE GREAT NATIVIDAD SNAKE HUNT 167
THE SAGA OF HARBOR BILL 178
THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND 184
MARLON GERBER: GOING DEEP 187
THE NORTHING 191
THE PRIVATE WORLD OF TOM CURREN 218
DREAM ON 226
CHEYNE HORAN’S RAINBOW BRIDGE 234
BEASTS OF BURDEN 252
ICE BLUE EYES 260
THE FATHER, THE SON, AND THE HOLY SPIRIT 264
MP AND THE FAT MAN 275
SAVAGE BEAUTY 283
WATER FROM THE MOON 288
THE COMING AGE OF MARK OCCHILUPO 292
IN ANOTHER COUNTRY 303
OSCAR WRIGHT AND THE FEAR OF FALLING 310
CRITICAL MASS 321
BEYOND THE GREAT WALL 327
THE RELENTLESS SOUL OF MADE WINADA ADI PUTRA 337
THE QUESTION OF KELLY SLATER 340
WHERE CHILDREN REIGN 343
STATE OF GRACE 353
EXPAT 366
JUNGLE BOY 370
WALL OF SKULLS 374
THE HELL ZONE 382
LEST WE FORGET 390
ANAK LAUT 398
THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING GARUT 404
THE DELICATE DANCE 409
AMAZING GRACE 414
CANGGU: EAT, PRAY, FUCK 417
JUNGLE LOVE 434
APOCALYPSE HERE 438
MIKE PARSONS AND THE HOUNDS OF HELL 442
GOING TOO FAR 448
PURPOSE BUILT 455
TWO TICKETS TO PARADISE 459
JUNGLE STORY 469
WARM WHISKEY FOR ALL GHOSTS 480
IN GOD’S HANDS 493
THE BALI YOU REMEMBER 498
FAREWELL TO THE KING...FOR NOW 511
THEY ARE WHO YOU ARE 516
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 520
ABOUT THE AUTHOR 522