The Science of Climbing

Autorentext

Ludovic Seifert is Professor at the Faculty of Sport Sciences at University of Rouen Normandy in France. He gained a PhD in Sport Sciences focused on Behavioural Neurosciences in 2003, and a MSc. in Statistics in 2005. He conducts his research in the field of Motor Learning and Motor Control following Ecological Dynamics framework. His main research topics relate to acquisition, transfer and expertise of interlimb coordination, interpersonal coordination and visual-motor coordination in sport. He was awarded as senior member of the French University Institute (IUF) in 2021 and 2026. He is also Mountain Guide certified by IFMGA.

Peter Wolf is a senior researcher and has been overseeing research and development work in the fields of rehabilitation robotics and sports engineering for almost 20 years. Recently, he has also focused on technical solutions for para-athletes in various sports, but he also keeps returning to climbing.

Taylor Reed directs the Beta Angel Project, an initiative dedicated to translating climbing research into practice. He has coached youth and adult climbers from recreational to elite and international levels and presented on coaching and climbing science at symposia and international conferences. He serves as Vice President of the International Rock Climbing Research Association.

Kaja Langer is a postdoctoral researcher at the Technical University in Darmstadt and the Friedrich-Alexander-University in Erlangen-Nürnberg, Germany. Her research focuses on investigating the effects of strength training on climbing performance, advancing standardized protocols in performance diagnostics, and increasing scientific understanding of female climbers. She can be credited with the publication of multiple articles in these areas.

Klappentext

The Science of Climbing was the first book to explore in depth the science of climbing and mountaineering, striking a balance between theory and practice and written by a team of leading international sport scientists, clinicians and climbing practitioners, it offered practical examples and illustrative data to demonstrate the strategies that can be adopted to promote safety, best practice, injury prevention, recovery, mental preparation and create a deeper understanding for the sport of climbing and mountaineering.

This fully updated, new second edition continues to cover the full span of technical disciplines including the history and evolution of climbing research, the physiological, biomechanical, skill acquistion and psychological foundations of climbing but now also investigates the technological, artificial intelligence and nutritional aspects of the sport, as well as introducing chapters examining competition and performance analysis as a direct response to climbing being included into the Olympic and Paralympic program.

Showcasing the latest cutting-edge research and demonstrating how science translates into practice, this fully revised edition of The Science of Climbing is essential reading for all advanced students and researchers of sport science, biomechanics and skill acquisition, as well as all active climbers and adventure sport coaches.

Inhalt

1. A Cultural History of Mountaineering and Climbing

2. Physiology of Climbing

3. Energetic Cost and Movement Economy in Climbing

4. Grip Capabilities of Climbers' Hands and Fingers

5. Muscular Strength and Endurance in Climbers

6. Hemodynamic Regulation of Performance in Sport Climbing

7. Sport Climbing Related Injuries

8. Low Energy Availability and Climbers

9. Nutrition

10. Perception, Decision Making and Action in Expert Climbers

11. Skill Acquisition in Climbing

12. Visual-Motor Skill in Climbing

13. Psychological Processes in Climbing

14. Contact Forces in Climbing - Measurement Technologies, Results and Applications

15. Automated Video Analysis in Climbing

16. Wearable Non-Invasive Sensors for Science-Based Training and Performance Enhancement

17. Competition Analyses

18. Performance Indicators in Climbing

19. Long-Term Athlete Development in Climbing