The inner corselette, one of the hallmarks of a couture gown, is considered a challenging project by many sewers. Detailed information on the process is hard to find and it''s difficult to know where to start. Bodice Engineering: Mastering the Inner Corselette offers a solution by introducing the fundamental techniques to design and sew an inner corselette, giving you the confidence to create this structural foundation garment with professional results. Divided into two sections, you''ll find step-by-step instructions to equip you with the know-how to build an inner corselette, followed by an in-depth look at the construction of six garments, each designed to teach particular skills and inspire your creativity. With over 360 photographs and illustrations, you''ll find detailed information on every aspect of the process, including: Designing an inner corselette using a commercial pattern Refining the fit with a toile Choosing fabrics, notions and boning Constructing the corselette shell Adding shape and structure with boning Creating a strong and comfortable closure Joining the inner corselette and the garment Whether you are building an inner corselette for the first time or looking to refine your skills, this comprehensive guide is essential for any sewer wanting to create a beautifully engineered bodice.

Autorentext
Louise Johnson is a couture dressmaker, private sewing instructor and Australian Sewing Guild Industry Partner based in Perth, Australia. She has spent several years researching the history of inner corselettes, their construction methods, and the techniques used for integrating them into gowns.

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Introduction
PART 1: BUILDING AN INNER CORSELETTE

1. Creating Shape: A Brief History
   Corselettes and Dior's New Look
   Inner Corselette Designs
   Why Sew an Inner Corselette?

2. Selecting and Fitting the Pattern
   Measuring for a Corselette
   Selecting the Pattern
   Selecting the Pattern Size
   Understanding Ease
   Determining Pattern Ease
   Adjusting the Pattern
   Adding a Centre Front Dart

3. The Toile
   Constructing the Toile
   Fitting the Toile
   Assessing the Fit
   Adjusting the Toile
   Marking the Changes

4. Selecting Fabrics, Notions and Boning
   Fabrics
   Boning
   Selecting your Boning
   Tapes
   Fasteners

5. Construction Overview
   Prepare the Pattern
   Prepare the Fabric Elements
   General Construction Sequence

6. Creating the Shell
   Single, Double or Lined?
   Assembling a Lined Corselette
   Assembling a Double Layer Woven Corselette
   Assembling a Double Layer Bobbinet Corselette
   Pressing
   Sewing the Seams
   Finishing the Seam Allowances

7. Installing the Boning
   Boning Layout
   Preparing the Boning
   Installing the Boning

8. Edge Finishes
   Stabilising the Upper Edge
   Upper Edge Finishes
   Finishing the Lower Edge

9. Adding the Fastening
   Planning the Fastenings
   Corselette Fastenings
   Zippers
   Hooks and Eyes
   Concealing Hooks and Eyes
   Waist Stays
   Skirt and Petticoat Fastenings
   Petticoat Fastenings
   Skirt Fastenings

10. Joining the Inner Corselette and Garment
    Machine Sewn to the Garment Upper Edge
    Faced Method
    Enclosed Seam Method
    Hand Sewn to the Garment Body
    Tiered Edges Method
    Wrapped Edge Method
    Floating Edge Method

    PART 2: APPLYING THE TECHNIQUES

11. The Classic Mini Dress
    Prepare the Patterns
    Sew and Fit the Toiles
    Construct the Inner Corselette
    Sew the Dress
    Join the Inner Corselette and Dress

12. The Lace Wedding Gown
    Prepare the Patterns
    Sew and Fit the Toiles
    Construct the Inner Corselette
    Sew the Gown
    Join the Inner Corselette and Gown
    Making a French Tack

13. The Sweetheart Bare-Shouldered Jacket
    Prepare the Patterns
    Sew and Fit the Toiles
    Construct the Corselette
    Sew the Jacket
    Join the Corselette and Jacket
    Complete the Jacket and Corselette

14. The Blush Tea-Length Gown
    Prepare the Patterns
    Sew and Fit the Toiles
    Construct the Corselette and Petticoat
    Sew the Gown
    Join the Corselette and Gown

15. The Floral Evening Gown
    Create and Fit the Strapless Design
    Prepare the Patterns
    Sew and Fit the Toiles
    Construct the Corselette
    Sew the Gown
    Join the Corselette and Gown
    Bust Enhancers

16. The Lilac Cocktail Gown
    Prepare the Patterns
    Modify the Patterns for the Gown Design
    Sew and Fit the Toiles
    Construct the Corselette
    Sew the Gown
    Join the Corselette and Dress

    Glossary
    Bibliography and Further Reading
    Resources
    Index