Cosmetic Creams

A guide to cosmetic creams that focuses on formulation, production, and safety concerns

Cosmetic Creams: Development, Manufacture and Marketing of Effective Skin Care Products puts the focus on the structure and formulation of a cosmetic cream, the production process, the effect of each ingredient, as well as safety considerations. Comprehensive in scope, the book contains a basic definition of cosmetics and describes the types of skin creams currently on the market, the major ingredients used, and example compositions. The author, Wilfried Rähse - a noted expert on the topic - offers guidelines for estimating manufacturing costs and includes procedures for an effective safety assessment.

The book contains information on various aspects of skin penetration and production and covers issues like materials used and hygienic packaging. In addition, Rähse reviews legal regulations with an emphasis on the European market. He discusses GMP and EHEDG directives. This important book:

-Offers a comprehensive resource that explores all aspects of cosmetic cream manufacturing and marketing
-Provides valuable guidelines for practitioners in the field
-Covers the underlying technologies of cosmetic creams
-Includes a review of raw material and manufacturing costs, hygiene and safety, and legal regulations
-Written by an author with more than 30 years? experience in the industry

Written for cosmetic chemists, chemists in industry, chemical engineers, dermatologists, Cosmetic Creams: Development, Manufacture and Marketing of Effective Skin Care Products, offers a unique industrial perspective of the topic that is comprehensive in scope.

Auteur

Wilfried Rähse, PhD, was director of process development at Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany. He worked for 30 years at Henkel, especially in product development, but also in production and environmental technology. After a brief retirement, he joined a cosmetic start-up company (Cosmeceuticals) as a partner for product development.

Contenu
Preface xi

Prior Publications xiii

1 General and Legal Aspects of Cosmetics 1

1.1 Short Look at the History of Cosmetics 1

1.2 Definition of Cosmetics 2

1.3 Typical Cosmetic Products 3

1.4 Legal Regulations of Cosmetics in Europe 4

1.5 Label Lettering and Trademark 7

1.6 Mandatory Registration of Cosmetic Products 11

1.7 Databases for Ingredients 11

1.8 Regulations in the United States 15

1.9 Regulations of the Cosmetics Markets in Asia 16

1.10 Delimitation of Cosmetic Products 18

1.11 Learnings 23

References 23

2 Economic Importance of Cosmetics 27

2.1 Cosmetics Market and Distribution Channels in Germany 27

2.2 Shopping on the Internet in Germany 30

2.3 European Cosmetics Markets 31

2.4 Cosmetics Market in USA 35

2.5 Cosmetics Market and Distribution Channels in Japan 35

2.6 Chinese Cosmetics Market 37

2.7 World Division in Market Regions 38

2.8 Global Cosmetics Market Size 39

2.9 Trends for Future Development 45

2.10 Largest Cosmetics Manufacturers Worldwide 45

2.11 Top Five Manufacturers 48

2.12 Learnings 56

References 56

3 Cost Structure of the Cosmetic Products and Their Manufacturers 59

3.1 Rough Calculation of the Costs 59

3.1.1 Overview 59

3.1.2 Development Products 61

3.1.3 Determination of the Market Price 61

3.2 Detailed Calculation of the Manufacturing Costs 62

3.2.1 Costs in the Production 62

3.2.2 Production Costs Related to Installation and Building 65

3.2.3 Labor Costs 65

3.2.4 Energy Costs 71

3.2.5 Production Cost Dependencies of Capacity, Operation, and Personnel 73

3.2.6 Raw Material Costs 76

3.3 Costs in the Companies 79

3.3.1 Internal Cost Accounting 80

3.3.2 Direct Costs 81

3.3.3 Overheads in the Company's Cost and Performance Accounting 82

3.4 Figures from the Published Annual Reports 84

3.4.1 Industry-Dependent Cost Structures of the Companies 84

3.4.2 Profit and Loss Accounts of Global Cosmetics Companies 86

3.5 Methods for Pricing 91

3.5.1 Pricing Depending on the Customer 91

3.5.2 Cost-Oriented Pricing 92

3.5.3 Demand-Oriented Pricing 93

3.5.4 Competition-Oriented Pricing 95

3.5.5 Influence of the Brand 97

3.5.6 Summary of Pricing 98

3.6 Learnings 98

References 99

4 Scientific Descriptions of the Skin 103

4.1 Tasks of the Skin 103

4.2 Structure of the Skin 103

4.3 Concepts for Penetration of the Stratum Corneum 108

4.4 Some Experiments on the Penetration of Lipophilic Substances 114

4.5 Penetration of Agents into the Skin 120

4.6 Gender Differences in the Structure of the Skin 126

4.7 Learnings 127

References 127

5 Composition of Creams for Skin Care 131

5.1 General Structure of a Skin Care Cream 131

5.2 Modules of a Cream 132

5.3 Excipients 140

5.3.1 Emulsifier for Macroemulsions 140

5.3.2 Emulsifier for Mini (Nano) Emulsions 149

5.3.3 Stability of Emulsions 149

5.3.4 Adjusting the Cream Consistency 155

5.3.5 Preservations 158

5.3.6 Antioxidants, Complexing Agents, and Buffer Substances 163

5.4 Additives for Color and Fragrance 167

5.5 Aids Such as Liposomes for the Introduction of Substances into the Skin 167

5.6 Learnings 170

References 171

6 Proven Active Ingredients for Various Categories of Skin Creams 175

6.1 Skin Care 175

6.2 Cream Categories for Skin Care 176 6.2.1 Cosmetic Creams (Mainstr...