Surfing

Informationen zum Autor Douglas Booth is professor of sports studies and dean of the School of Physical Education at The University of Otago, New Zealand. Klappentext This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling-and triumphing over-one of the most powerful forces on earth. Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfing-including the often violent "locals only" mentality-and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding. Zusammenfassung This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing! describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport! providing insights into what makes the top riders tick! explaining the science of big waves! and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu! Hawaii. Inhaltsverzeichnis Series Foreword Preface Chronology 1. Explanations2. Origins3. Science4. Breaks5. Heroes6. Technicalities7. Futures Glossary Bibliography Index

Auteur

Douglas Booth is professor of sports studies and dean of the School of Physical Education at The University of Otago, New Zealand.

Texte du rabat

This guide showcases the world of extreme surfing, describing the unique culture associated with this daredevil's sport, providing insights into what makes the top riders tick, explaining the science of big waves, and more. "The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling-and triumphing over-one of the most powerful forces on earth. Surfing: The Ultimate Guide explains the culture of extreme surfing-including the often violent "locals only" mentality-and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.

Contenu

Series Foreword Preface Chronology 1. Explanations 2. Origins 3. Science 4. Breaks 5. Heroes 6. Technicalities 7. Futures Glossary Bibliography Index