Sex and Suits

Zusatztext Examining the relationship between genders as represented through clothing from Medieval times to the 1990s, Sex and Suits by Anne Hollander has become a classic within the field of fashion studies. Though written two decades ago in 1994, the book is still extremely relevant todayan immensely informative and interesting read. Informationen zum Autor Anne Hollander was an independent scholar and critic whose work changed the way we look at fashion and art. A fellow of the New York Institute for the Humanities and former president of PEN American Center, she was the author of several influential books on the subject of costume and fabric in art, including Seeing through Clothes, Sex and Suits and Fabric of Vision. She also published Moving Pictures about the influence of painting on cinema, and Feeding the Eye, a selection of essays. Her highly innovative books are rigorous, stylish, provocative and insightful. Klappentext In Sex and Suits brilliant essayist and art critic Anne Hollander charts the development of men's and women's fashion from their divergence in the medieval period to their convergence through to the late 20th century. Challenging the idea that the suit's success is merely down to its practicality, this trailblazing book argues that men have been fashion's true style-setters and that as women's fashion has taken on elements of men's style through tailoring, so men have reclaimed the embellishment and colour of past eras.As insightful and ground-breaking as it was when it was first published, Sex and Suits is a classic text on the evolution of modern fashion and is essential reading for anyone interested in the history of dress, gender and sexuality. Zusammenfassung Since the dawn of western fashion in the Middle Ages! women's dress has never stopped evolving! yet menswear has seen far fewer style revolutions. At the centre of the male wardrobe is the suit: relatively unchanged since the 17th century! its cut and cloth suggest athleticism! seriousness! sexuality and strength - qualities which contrasted with the perceived superficiality and frivolity of female dress! and eventually led to the adoption of the suit into the female wardrobe where it remains to this day.In Sex and Suits brilliant essayist and art critic Anne Hollander charts the development of men's and women's fashion from their divergence in the medieval period to their convergence through to the late 20th century. Challenging the idea that the suit's success is merely down to its practicality! this trailblazing book argues that men have been fashion's true style-setters and that as women's fashion has taken on elements of men's style through tailoring! so men have reclaimed the embellishment and colour of past eras.First published in 1994 to great acclaim! this classic text is as fresh and provocative as ever and remains a must-read for students! scholars and anyone fascinated by the history of fashion and gender. Inhaltsverzeichnis List of Illustrations1. INTRODUCTIONSex and the Modern FormWhat Fashion IsII. THE WORK OF FASHIONFashion! Non-fashion and Anti-fashionMeaning in FashionForm and SexualityEarly Fashion HistoryLater ChangesFemale InventionIII. THE GENESIS OF THE SUITThe Great DivideReason and FantasySobriety and SimplicityAntique Natural NudityHeroes in WoolNeo-classic EroticsReady-made MenThe Once and Future SuitIV. MODERNITYWorth and His EffectsReforming WomenStaysRedesigning WomenModern TransformationsRecent RevolutionsV. NOWADAYSInformalitiesSexualitiesRevelationsAnxietiesPerceptionsSelect BibliographyIndex ...

Préface
As insightful and ground-breaking as it was when it was first published, Sex and Suits is a classic text on the evolution of modern fashion and is essential reading for anyone interested in the history of dress, gender and sexuality.

Auteur
Anne Hollander was an independent scholar and critic whose work changed the way we look at fashion and art. A fellow of the New York Institute for the Humanities and former president of PEN American Center, she was the author of several influential books on the subject of costume and fabric in art, including Seeing through Clothes, Sex and Suits and Fabric of Vision. She also published Moving Pictures about the influence of painting on cinema, and Feeding the Eye, a selection of essays. Her highly innovative books are rigorous, stylish, provocative and insightful.

Texte du rabat

Since the dawn of western fashion in the Middle Ages, women's dress has never stopped evolving, yet menswear has seen far fewer style revolutions. At the centre of the male wardrobe is the suit: relatively unchanged since the 17th century, its cut and cloth suggest athleticism, seriousness, sexuality and strength - qualities which contrasted with the perceived superficiality and frivolity of female dress, and eventually led to the adoption of the suit into the female wardrobe where it remains to this day. In Sex and Suits brilliant essayist and art critic Anne Hollander charts the development of men's and women's fashion from their divergence in the medieval period to their convergence through to the late 20th century. Challenging the idea that the suit's success is merely down to its practicality, this trailblazing book argues that men have been fashion's true style-setters and that as women's fashion has taken on elements of men's style through tailoring, so men have reclaimed the embellishment and colour of past eras. First published in 1994 to great acclaim, this classic text is as fresh and provocative as ever and remains a must-read for students, scholars and anyone fascinated by the history of fashion and gender.

Contenu
List of Illustrations 1. INTRODUCTION Sex and the Modern Form What Fashion Is II. THE WORK OF FASHION Fashion, Non-fashion and Anti-fashion Meaning in Fashion Form and Sexuality Early Fashion History Later Changes Female Invention III. THE GENESIS OF THE SUIT The Great Divide Reason and Fantasy Sobriety and Simplicity Antique Natural Nudity Heroes in Wool Neo-classic Erotics Ready-made Men The Once and Future Suit IV. MODERNITY Worth and His Effects Reforming Women Stays Redesigning Women Modern Transformations Recent Revolutions V. NOWADAYS Informalities Sexualities Revelations Anxieties Perceptions Select Bibliography Index